TRAVEL: Cheltenham
Pay a visit to the most complete Regency town in the country
If you're not a fan of the sport of kings and you're not a customer of a certain building society, it's probably fair to say that Cheltenham doesn't weigh heavy on your mind.
But while everyone knows that Bath down the road is chock-full of Regency splendours, the experts will tell you that Cheltenham is the real deal.
It's said to be the most complete Regency town in the country and the elegant parades and villas and wide open spaces – not to mention the poshest council offices I've ever seen in my life – make this compact conurbation an ideal short break destination.
And if you're looking to stay longer, it's a perfect base for exploring the stunning surrounding countryside, including the Cotsworlds. You might even pop down to Bath if you've got the time.
Where Cheltenham certainly scores over Bath, for now at least, is that it boasts a Hotel Du Vin, one of the expanding chain of boutique hotels based in historic buildings, and always in the heart of town.
I felt slightly cheated when I approached the Parabola Road premises in the chic Montpelier district of town – just round the corner from the famous Cheltenham Ladies' College, don't you know – to see a blue plaque proudly on the spotless white walls.
Could this impressive edifice have been the home of composer Gustav Holst, I wondered? Maybe it was the birthplace of pioneering scientist Sir Edward Jenner, or might it have been linked to tragic Rolling Stone Brian Jones, another local lad?
None of the above, I'm afraid – the local heritage harpies thought that the fact that Sir Norman Wisdom spent some of his wartime years billeted in the building was worthy of note. Grasping at straws a bit, if you ask me.
Particularly when there is so much else to enjoy in this civilised spa town.
There's culture galore, including a thriving theatre, and some serious shopping if that's your bag.
But what's really worth savouring is the chance to saunter along the elegant streets, stopping off for a coffee or a bite to eat at one of the many tempting locations in the town centre, and just going with the flow.
Of course, for a few days in March every year Cheltenham becomes home to the Irish in willing exile as the Emerald Isle empties itself of every self-respecting follower of the turf heading for the races.
And truth be told, that sporting heritage is celebrated in a distinctly iffy mural in the Hotel Du Vin.
But that equine aberration aside, I found the 49-room Cheltenham representative of the cherished brand rich with rewards.
The chain is renowned for room quality, with a high standard of fixtures and fittings and signature bathrooms that invite you to luxuriate.
A hatful of awards has headed their way because of their style and high standards, and deservedly so.
The premises were formerly the Carlton Hotel, taking on Hotel Du Vin colours only in 2007, but has already attracted a string of rave reviews which are easily found online if you don't believe me.
Of particular note – aside from the relaxed but really rather delicious bistro menu and the optional beauty treatment room – is the programme of special events. My visit coincided with a Spanish night which served up a delicious Iberian menu, wines to match and some stunning entertainment from guitarists and a dancer that were a world away from a package holiday flamenco night.
Check out www.hotelduvin.com for details of what else is in store.
Any weekend unwinding in a Hotel Du Vin is worth writing home about, but these added value events add an extra dimension to the sheer pleasure of everything else that these experts in the art of stylish service have to offer.
Related links:
Visit Cheltenham
Cheltenham Racecourse
What do you think of Alan Dee's review? Do you rate Cheltenham? Where's the best places to stay and go? Post us a comment below.
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Weather for Biggleswade
Sunday 12 February 2012
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