TRAVEL: Denver
Things to do in Denver when you're alive - and not a ski slope in sight!
Tell anyone you're going to Colorado on holiday, and chances are they'll ask if you're going skiing.
True, the American state, situated almost slap bang in the centre of the USA in Rocky Mountain country, has some of the best snow in the world, making it a hotspot for skiers and snowboarders the world over.
But that doesn't mean a holiday in Colorado has to begin and end with pistes, ploughs and powder. There's a lot, lot more to the place than that.
Denver, which celebrates its 150th birthday this year, is Colorado's state capital, and also one of the most isolated cities in America.
Indeed, you'd have to travel for about 500 miles in any direction to find another metropolis; the upshot of that being Mile High City's incredible feeling of independence, demonstrated by the huge number of privately owned businesses and shops on every street.
Yes, there are the typical chain stores and malls you might expect to find in an industrious American city, but there are countless book, record and clothes stores and great restaurants which all give a unique flavour of the place, not to mention the relaxed, liberal-minded people.
Before getting into the ins and outs of Denver, however, a word of caution; because of the city's altitude - it's not called Mile High City for nothing - the air tends to be very thin, which can lead to mild headaches and nausea.
Thankfully, it's easy to solve. Just drink plenty of water to stay hydrated, and take it easy when you arrive to acclimatise properly.
If you love to shop, visit Cherry Creek North, just a mile or two outside the city. There, you can sample boutique outlets and independently owned restaurants, while across the street is Cherry Creek Mall, which offers all of the stores you might expect to see in such a place - Apple, Levi, Abercrombie & Fitch, Banana Republic and many, many more.
The mall is the perfect place to exploit the strength of the pound over the dollar, and if you show your passport at the information point, you'll receive a book of vouchers that'll give you sizable discounts in most of the shops.
Strangely, for a landlocked city hundreds of miles from the coast, the seafood on offer in Denver is great, but most eateries in the city have a bison burger or steak on the menu.
It's a low-fat meat that comes highly recommended, especially when served at the Appaloosa Grill on 16th street, or the Wynkoop Brewing Company, one of the largest pubs in Denver, complete with child-friendly dining, and an amazing old-fashioned pool hall on the top floor.
Talking of pubs, Denver, and Colorado in general, is home to a large number of micro-breweries, many of which are small, family-fun businesses offering something extra special for the discerning beer-drinker.
To take full advantage of this, take a trip to the Falling Rock Tap House on Blake Street in the area known as LoDo - lower downtown - where they have around 70 different draught beers on the go at any time, and many more in bottles.
Should you be unsure which to sample first, just ask the friendly staff who are only to keen to help you make up your mind.
If you can still walk properly after leaving that bar, stroll around the corner to El Chapultepec, a legendary venue in jazz circles due to performances from some of the greats including Ella Fitzgerald and Frank Sinatra.
With live jazz seven nights a week and good Mexican food, the tiny club is still a special place.
Just across from the venue is Coors Field, home to The Colorado Rockies, Denver's Major League Baseball team.
I was lucky enough to go to the opening game of the season on a scorching afternoon. On the day of the game, there's a carnival atmosphere on the streets around the ground, and the party mood spills over into the stands.
It didn't seem to matter that the Rockies were badly beaten this time - as long as the beer was cold and the hot dogs kept coming, the crowd remained happy.
If you can get tickets for a ball game, do so - it's an experience you'll never forget.
For an even better time, pal up with an American who knows the game, they'll delight in explaining the rules, in between shouting abuse at their own players.
Hotel-wise, Denver has a lot to offer too, from budget apartments, right up to our luxurious boutique Teatro.
The modern hotel is so welcoming you might not want to leave.
Thankfully when you do tear yourself away, it's easy to get around on foot as the Teatro's situated in the heart of Denver on 14th Street.
If you don't want to walk, the hotel has a great car service that'll drop you off and collect you from anywhere in the city, free of charge.
Equally impressive is the recently refurbished Magnolia on 17th Street, a sophisticated classic hotel in a stunning building that used to be a national bank.
When you start to explore, Denver Art Museum is a must-see. Even if you don't go in, at least marvel at the architecture of the Daneil Liebskind-designed building, which, all angular and made of sheet titanium, looks more like a futuristic spaceship than a gallery.
Inside, you can see original work by Warhol, Lichtenstein and Mondrian, as well as Damien Hirst's giant ash tray and many other luminaries from the world of modern art.
You can also absorb Colorado's rich heritage of American Indian art in a number of permanent displays.
Just 15 miles west of the city is Red Rocks amphitheatre, and whether you're a music lover eager to visit the scene of outdoor concerts by the likes of The Beatles, U2, Coldplay and Tom Petty, or whether you just want to take in the beautiful view, high above Denver, it's a worthy destination.
If you happen to go during concert season, which runs from about May to October, make sure you check out the listings to see who's on.
About an hour north of Denver lies the second-largest city in the state, Colorado Springs.
While it's easy enough to take a day trip here from Denver, to fully appreciate Colorado Springs it's well worth finding a hotel in the city.
There are many to choose from, but for a bit of scenic luxury, splash out and stay at the Cheyenne Mountain Resort, which has amazing chalet-like rooms, all of which have balconies facing out onto the most stunning views of the Cheyenne mountain.
The Broadmoor is another option, but even if you don't stay in the palatial hotel - seriously, it's one of the most glamorous hotels in America, the site of this year's US Senior Open golf tournament - at least go there to sample a lavish breakfast and soak in the rich tradition of former owner and anti-prohibition lobbyist Spencer Penrose.
The Garden Of The Gods on the outskirts of the city will be familiar to fans of Western films, as countless movies have been made there among the giant sandstone formations and breathtaking, wide-open landscape.
An hour's drive further north you'll find Canon City and Royal Gorge, home to the world's highest suspension bridge, 1,200 feet above the ground.
Take a ride down to the bottom of the ravine on the incline railway, or, for the more foolhardy - or should that be foolish? - there's the Skycoaster; a giant swing which flings you out over the gorge at 50mph, and high enough for you see the dot that is Phoenix in Arizona on the horizon.
The Skycoaster is absolutely exhilarating, and when you're up there, dangling high above the ground looking out at the beautiful surroundings, you'll be glad you plucked up the courage to go through with it. I certainly was.
On the way down from Colorado Springs, there are a number of places worth a stop, including Manitou, a small town full of arts and crafts stores, and if you find yourself anywhere near Golden, west of Denver, pay a visit to the grave of William Cody, aka Buffalo Bill.
The famous showman is buried on a spot overlooking the Great Plains, and the museum there is a fascinating insight into one of showbusiness's first great entrepreneurs, and a man who loved Colorado deeply.
After sampling the state, you'll understand exactly how he felt.
TRAVEL FACTS
Andy Welch flew to Denver as a guest of Colorado Tourism Office and United Airlines.
From Heathrow, United Airlines offers one-stop services into Denver via Chicago, Washington DC, San Francisco and Los Angeles, with fares from 476.05 for travel in October. Fares from Manchester start at 654.75, and from Glasgow, 652.65.
United Airlines flights information: 0845 444 777 www.unitedairlines.co.uk
United Vacations, the travel arm of United Airlines, offers tailor-made five-night stays in Colorado Springs from 765, and in Denver city from 835. Prices include flights, surcharges and accommodation.
Reservations: 0844 499 6661 and www.unitedvacations.co.uk
Destination information available from Colorado Tourism on 08456 020 574 and www.colorado.com
More information on Denver is available at www.denver.org; on Colorado Springs at www.experiencecoloradosprings.com and on the Royal Gorge Bridge at www.royalgorgebridge.com.
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Weather for Biggleswade
Saturday 11 February 2012
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