The friendly welcome to 50,000 British soccer fans when Moscow staged the 2008 European Cup final – and a temporary suspension of visa controls to ease their passage – suggested even this, often daunting, city has realised the value of tourism.

It hasn't always been that way. The death by poisoning of dissident Alexander Litvinenko on British soil drove a huge wedge between our two countries, even before our lEastern European friends had the temerity to pip England in reaching the Euro 2008 football finals.

Despite these occasional fall-outs, however, most Britons remain enchanted with Moscow and the picture-postcard sights of the illuminating Red Square.

Anywhere that has the mausoleum of one of the leading revolutionaries of the 20th century positioned cheek by jowl with the nerve centre of the country's power base, a lavish department store and a colourful ancient cathedral straight out of Disneyland begs to be on anyone's must-see list.

Admittedly, getting there is not as easy as jumping on a cheap flight to former Soviet Union members like Estonia or Latvia. Flights are more expensive to Moscow and you need a tourist visa, which doesn't leave much change out of £90.

So, a touch of faith is required, but as you stand in Red Square gazing at the wonders around you it certainly becomes a worthwhile investment.

I flew into Sheremetevo airport, 28km from the city centre.

Shuttle trains to the centre of Moscow operate from the city's other main airport, Domodedovo, around 35km away, but you need to take a taxi or a bus from Sheremetevo to the nearest metro station.

The best option is to arrange a pick-up with your hotel because the taxi ride can be arduous. In rush-hour traffic, which appeared constant apart from in the wee small hours, a journey of two hours-plus means a whopping fare.

The number of cars on the roads is startling compared to a decade ago and indicates the ordinary punter is gaining easier access to credit.

If you're looking for a bargain when hitting the shops you've come to the wrong place. The price of almost everything is at London levels and Moscow is definitely up there as one of the most expensive cities in the world. The only place where I found a noticeable difference in cost to the advantage of the tourist was McDonalds!

Getting around the city on foot is fairly simple as it is laid out in a concentric layout of rings, which are easy to follow. You need a sturdy pair of footwear in the winter as heavy traffic and thawing temperatures can rapidly turn snow into slush. Also, keep your wits about you for random potholes and open drains.

The metro system is extremely efficient and user-friendly but avoiding rush hours is advisable with nine million passengers each day – more than London and Paris combined.

You will want to head to Red Square first and you won't be disappointed. It's pure box office tourism.

The multi-coloured St Basil's Cathedral, built in the mid-16th century on the orders of Ivan the Terrible, is smaller than it appears on television but provides a bizarre contrast to the daunting Kremlin walls and ramparts that surround the square.

About two-thirds of the Kremlin is closed to visitors and the symbol of government power certainly conveys an awesome sense of strength. It's a show of muscle from a country that craves respect from its counterparts and if that has to be done through fear then so be it.

The numerous cathedrals and palaces within the Kremlin complex are well worth viewing, as is Lenin's Mausoleum – although the latter is a rapid process as you are back outside before you know it.

Throw in the equivalent of Harrods with the GUM department store, which faces the Kremlin walls, and you have a bizarre set of contrasts. The sense of surrealism was heightened as a stream of brides and grooms dashed through Red Square, apparently this is a traditional spot for wedding photographs.

A visit to the Bolshoi Ballet is an essential. The theatre, which houses the most renowned dance company in the world, was under renovation while we were there but its temporary replacement nearby in a smaller building was not too shabby.

Being a ballet virgin I was filled with trepidation that I would nod off during the performance and embarrass myself among my travel group but I remained wide-eyed throughout. Watching ballet on TV can't do this particular art any justice, because it doesn't truly capture the visual feast of strength and skill.

A feast of quality food is also on offer in Moscow's restaurants. We tried several top class venues, my favourite being the Sky Lounge with stunning views of the capital from the 22nd floor of the Academy of Sciences building in Gagarin Square.

Establishments serving Russian cuisine are thin on the ground in tourist areas, which is a shame.

The nightlife is thriving although you have to dress the part with the notorious 'face control' policy on the doors. This took me back to the dark days of the 80s in Britain when wearing trainers often meant you were blocked from local fleapits, while slacks and a white shirt were waved through without any problems.

I am not sure these door policies ever uncover real troublemakers - but in Moscow it certainly has it advantages, admitting a disproportionate number of gorgeous women.

The city is also a regular stopover for the biggest names in pop and rock, even Manchester's finest the Happy Mondays mesmerised the locals recently.

I left Moscow feeling it had met all my expectations - it's up there with New York, London, Paris, Sydney, and, erm, Blackpool, as truly unique destinations everyone should see at least once in their lifetime.